Boiler Not Firing? Do These Safe Checks First (Then Stop)
This is the exact situation where people lose an hour staring at a boiler like it’s going to suddenly change its mind.
It won’t. If it’s clicking, trying, then giving up… something in the ignition/safety chain isn’t happy.
I’m Abdul (Gas Safe 626557). I’m in and out of Newham most weeks — terraces with older pipework,
ex-council flats where the boiler’s wedged in a kitchen cupboard, and newer builds where everything is “smart” until it isn’t.
This guide is the phone-version I give people when they ring me: quick checks that are safe, then a clear line where we stop DIY.
The 60-second “don’t make it worse” checklist
Not a repair. Not a bodge. Just the safe checks that stop you wasting time and causing damage.
1) Look at the pressure (if you have a gauge)
If it’s sitting near 0 (or well below 1 bar), many boilers simply won’t fire. People keep pressing reset and think it’s “ignition” when it’s actually pressure lockout.
If you topped it up recently and it’s dropped again fast, that’s not “normal behaviour”. That usually needs a proper diagnosis — not endless topping up.
2) Confirm it has power
I know this sounds basic, but it catches a surprising number of callouts. The fused spur gets knocked, a socket switch half-flicked, or an RCBO trips after the kettle + toaster + heater combo.
- Is the display lit?
- Any symbol or warning light?
- Does it sound like it’s trying to start?
3) Reset once (only once)
One reset is fine. If it locks out again immediately, stop. Multiple resets can stress components and hide what’s really happening.
If the boiler returns an error code, don’t guess — use the error code guide above and then move to diagnosis.
4) Listen to the “attempt pattern”
This sounds silly until you’ve heard it a thousand times: a short attempt then silence, repeated clicking, or a brief “whoosh” then shutdown. That pattern tells us a lot about whether it’s ignition, airflow, or safety cut-off.
If there’s any gas smell: stop, ventilate, do not reset again.
What “boiler not firing” usually means (in real homes)
People search this like it’s one fault. It isn’t. It’s a symptom. Most of the time, the boiler is preventing ignition because something isn’t safe or stable. The trick is not guessing… it’s checking the ignition sequence properly.
Ignition & flame proving issues
The boiler tries to light, but it can’t prove a stable flame — so it shuts down. That can be ignition components, flame sensing, wiring connections, or the burner setup needing attention.
The “give up after a few seconds” pattern fits here. It’s common, and usually diagnosable quickly when tested properly.
Airflow / fan / safety cut-offs
Modern boilers are picky (for good reason). If airflow readings are off or the unit thinks flue gases aren’t clearing, it refuses ignition. People try to force it on. That’s how small faults turn into bigger ones.
If you’ve noticed odd smells, marks, or anything that makes you pause, treat it as safety-first.
District proof: Newham flats & terraces
Newham is a mix — older terraces with “creative” historic pipework and flats where the boiler has had a hard life. A normal pattern I see: someone gets home, turns the heating on, and it starts clicking… then nothing. The flat feels colder by the minute, and the temptation is to hammer reset.
Nine times out of ten, the winning move is boring: stop, do the safe checks once, then book a fault-find. It’s faster than experimenting, and it keeps things safe.
Stop DIY here (seriously)
This is the part people skip. Stop and call a Gas Safe engineer if: you smell gas/burning, see soot marks, the boiler repeatedly locks out, or there’s any sign of leaking near electrics.
I’d rather you ring and it turns out to be simple than push through and make it dangerous.
If you just want it sorted
Call 07727 154746. Tell me the boiler model, what it’s doing (clicking? trying then stopping? error showing?), and your pressure reading if you have one. I’ll tell you straight whether this is likely a simple fix or needs a proper visit.
If it’s clearly safety-related, I’ll route you straight to emergency actions first.
What happens on a “not firing” visit
The goal is simple: make it safe, then make it work, then explain what happened in normal English. On a firing/ignition issue, we typically:
- Check the fault history and ignition attempt sequence (what it tries to do, and where it stops)
- Confirm safe operation checks (pressure, basic electrics, visible condition)
- Identify whether it’s an ignition/flame proving issue, airflow/safety cut-off, or system-side problem
- Explain options clearly before any meaningful work happens
If you’re not sure whether you’re in “no heating” territory or “hot water only” territory, use the jump guides at the top of this page.
What customers say (5.0 ★ from 37 Google reviews)
Paraphrased, kept realistic — no fantasy “best engineer in the universe” stuff.
“Boiler kept clicking and wouldn’t fire. Abdul explained what he was checking, fixed it properly, and didn’t leave a mess.”
— Local customer (East London)
“Turned up when he said he would, told me the truth about the fault, and didn’t try to upsell a replacement.”
— Newham area review
FAQ (real questions people ask mid-panic)
My boiler clicks like it’s trying… then stops. What is that?
That’s the boiler attempting the ignition sequence and then failing a condition (like flame proving or a safety check), so it shuts down. One reset is fine. After that, it needs diagnosis — not repeat attempts.
Is “boiler not firing” always an emergency?
Not always. It’s urgent, but it becomes an emergency when there are danger signs: gas smell, CO alarm, soot marks, or water near electrics. If you’re unsure, use the emergency route page above and don’t take risks.
Can low pressure stop ignition?
Yes. Plenty of boilers won’t fire below a minimum pressure threshold. The bigger issue is why it’s low. If it drops again quickly after topping up, that’s usually a fault that needs a proper look.
Why does it fail more in cold weather or late at night?
Because the boiler is suddenly under demand. Heating comes on, hot water demand spikes, and weak components show up. In flats, you also get odd power issues and pressure changes when lots of people in the building are running appliances.
What if I have no hot water but the heating works?
That often points to a combi hot water issue rather than whole-system failure. Use the “no hot water from a combi boiler” guide linked at the top — it’s written for that exact situation.
How fast can you get to me in Newham?
It depends on where we are on the day, but we’re based near Forest Gate and we’re regularly moving through Newham. Call and tell me your road/area and what the boiler is doing — I’ll give you a straight ETA and the right route (emergency vs repair).
Bottom line
If your boiler is not firing, don’t spend your whole evening pressing reset. Call 07727 154746 and tell me: boiler model, what it’s doing, and any display message.
If you need to check safety first, use: our boiler emergency guidance. If there are no danger signs and you want a proper fix, book diagnostics via: boiler repairs.
ARA Services Ltd (Plumbing and Electrical Services) • Durning Hall, Suite 14, Hyat Hub 14, Earlham Grove, London E7 9AB • Open 24 hours • 5.0 ★ (37 Google reviews)